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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:26 pm
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:42 pm
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:16 pm
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 9:19 pm
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 9:37 pm
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 9:54 pm
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:18 pm
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 pm
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Shanna66 i only want that gaboon, other than him they dont interest me as much as some other species. i plan on getting a horned viper one day but thats not much better venom-wise lol i may opt for a rattler though, ive heard some species tame very easily and make as great a starter as your going to get. but most people tell me the best thing to do is find your favorite species and just start with that, that venom is venom and its dangerous no matter what one of the next snakes i plan on getting is a hognose, i havent decided on eastern or western yet though it will be years before i own one though. no private collections in my area and the zoo i want to work at isnt hiring
Lol... Fell in love with the ONE animal, huh? Kind of like, I don't want another beardie... But there's no way I would give up my Man Ray. Regardless of how tame a species gets, though, remember that venomous is still venomous. It would be stupid, IMO, to free-handle the most puppy-dog tame False Water Cobra, let alone any sort of pit viper. It doesn't matter how docile they are, because accidents can still happen.
Until you can start training to keep hots, maybe you should take on an ATB, GTP, or ETB? I've heard ATBs and chondros referred to as "good practice hots" since they usually spend all their time trying to "kill" you. Since they don't have venom, though, all their bites do is hurt... Basically, if you decide you want to get into hots, you take on, say, a particularly mean Amazon Tree Boa and, whenever you get tagged/bitten, mark it on a calender. Say to yourself, "I just got sent to the hospital in an ambulance" or something of the sort. It'll help get across the seriousness of keeping hots to your mind and, once you reach a point where there hasn't been a single mark on your "bite calender" for at least a couple months, you can consider yourself ready to start training. Plus, since these species are usually rather particular in their habitat requirements, it helps you become familiar with the more specialized care some animals need.
I actually want to get a tame ATB, simply because they're such a cool species. They're really colorful, too. =3
What are the main differences between Eastern and Western hognoses? I haven't read much into them, other than what I've been told (about westerns, I think) by hognose keepers on the corn snake forums, so I don't really know much about what sets each species apart. Heck, I don't think I even know what an Eastern looks like, if it isn't identical to a Western, since I'm 99% sure all/most of the hognoses kept by the CS.com folks are westerns...
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:06 pm
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Foofy_Miru Shanna66 i only want that gaboon, other than him they dont interest me as much as some other species. i plan on getting a horned viper one day but thats not much better venom-wise lol i may opt for a rattler though, ive heard some species tame very easily and make as great a starter as your going to get. but most people tell me the best thing to do is find your favorite species and just start with that, that venom is venom and its dangerous no matter what one of the next snakes i plan on getting is a hognose, i havent decided on eastern or western yet though it will be years before i own one though. no private collections in my area and the zoo i want to work at isnt hiring Lol... Fell in love with the ONE animal, huh? Kind of like, I don't want another beardie... But there's no way I would give up my Man Ray. Regardless of how tame a species gets, though, remember that venomous is still venomous. It would be stupid, IMO, to free-handle the most puppy-dog tame False Water Cobra, let alone any sort of pit viper. It doesn't matter how docile they are, because accidents can still happen. Until you can start training to keep hots, maybe you should take on an ATB, GTP, or ETB? I've heard ATBs and chondros referred to as "good practice hots" since they usually spend all their time trying to "kill" you. Since they don't have venom, though, all their bites do is hurt... Basically, if you decide you want to get into hots, you take on, say, a particularly mean Amazon Tree Boa and, whenever you get tagged/bitten, mark it on a calender. Say to yourself, "I just got sent to the hospital in an ambulance" or something of the sort. It'll help get across the seriousness of keeping hots to your mind and, once you reach a point where there hasn't been a single mark on your "bite calender" for at least a couple months, you can consider yourself ready to start training. Plus, since these species are usually rather particular in their habitat requirements, it helps you become familiar with the more specialized care some animals need. I actually want to get a tame ATB, simply because they're such a cool species. They're really colorful, too. =3 What are the main differences between Eastern and Western hognoses? I haven't read much into them, other than what I've been told (about westerns, I think) by hognose keepers on the corn snake forums, so I don't really know much about what sets each species apart. Heck, I don't think I even know what an Eastern looks like, if it isn't identical to a Western, since I'm 99% sure all/most of the hognoses kept by the CS.com folks are westerns...
besides feeding and cleaning i dont plan on having any interaction with them. i dont want to get one to be a companion or to show off, i want one because i adore venomous snakes, they look amazing and there is just something majestic about them, especialy vipers.
lol, tree snakes arent too friendly i take it? i adore ETBs, but i hate having humid setups. my cresty and ball python give me enough trouble. yet another reason why i want a horned viper
and im really not sure the difference between eastern and western hogs, hence why i dont know which one i want yet XD
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Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:24 pm
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Alright, just wanted to clarify. =)
I don't know about ALL tree snakes, but, yeah, tree boids seem to carry a reputation of being pains in the rear on temperament. I'm under the impression ATBs are more forgiving on their set-up... I've heard of ATBs being considered good starter animals for the not-so-experienced herper that wants to jump right in to the pickier arboreals. They don't get too big, either. My mom likes ETBs the best of the arboreals, but it scares me that they get so big with their massive teeth.
I could also send you Lucy, my TBS. She'd make a great "practice hot"... wink Lol, j/k. She really does try to eat me whenever she has the opportunity, though. Unless she's deep in shed, then she just hisses her face off and tries to get away. Mean, scary snake. I actually keep her much like you say you would a hot... Lol. Only interact with her when I have to. Hooking her out to clean the enclosure, trying to hurry and change the water while she's distracted by food... She's not hook trained, either, so the former is REALLY fun. Not. xP
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Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 8:09 am
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Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:02 pm
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Shanna66 lol XD ive seen gloves that you cna get where if a snake bites it wont hurt, im not sure how well they work because ive never seen someone using them at the moment i think ill be using the eastern milk as a practice snake, he loves biting. he is too tiny for snake hooks but he hasnt calmed down at all after months. he has his personality set and he will only tolorate the fiance, and even then not by much. he likes to pretend he is bigger than he really is i also want to look into rescues and maybe find a defanged snake or one thats already gotten used to people somewhat. i want to do that before i look for a breeder. one thing i do know is that i dont want wild caught or captive hatched
I think you're thinking of Kevlar. There's no guarantee that a venomous snake's fangs won't pierce right through, though.
FWIW, I still think an arboreal would be a better practice animal. Since they're up in the "trees," they're pretty much wherever you go... Eastern milk will likely be hiding away whenever you go to do cage maintenance. (Not to mention the prospect of going from tiny eastern milk to massive pit viper!)
Venomoid snakes... Another unreliable thing, and, as I've heard it, cruel to boot. Hold on, let me track down the info I came across recently... Here we go. This is a direct copy and paste from a post made by a member of the corn snake forum, who aspires to be a venomous keeper, as well.
"It IS possible, but not recommended. The venomoid procedure is usually done by backyard unlicensed "vets", and the health risk to the animal is VERY high. Several venomous snakes use their venom as a way to aid in their digestion. When I decide to keep a cobra (after years of working with them with a licensed venomous expert), it would still have it's venom glands. And even then, I wouldn't have more than one or two. They are absolutely beautiful animals, and I would hate to risk their life by trying to make them "safer". Besides, if the venomoid "procedure" is done incorrectly, the venom glands grow back."
Here's a link to the thread it's from... The quoted post is from Page 4, but this link is to Page 5 since it's where most of the discussion took place: http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92326&page=5
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Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:19 pm
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Foofy_Miru Shanna66 lol XD ive seen gloves that you cna get where if a snake bites it wont hurt, im not sure how well they work because ive never seen someone using them at the moment i think ill be using the eastern milk as a practice snake, he loves biting. he is too tiny for snake hooks but he hasnt calmed down at all after months. he has his personality set and he will only tolorate the fiance, and even then not by much. he likes to pretend he is bigger than he really is i also want to look into rescues and maybe find a defanged snake or one thats already gotten used to people somewhat. i want to do that before i look for a breeder. one thing i do know is that i dont want wild caught or captive hatched I think you're thinking of Kevlar. There's no guarantee that a venomous snake's fangs won't pierce right through, though. FWIW, I still think an arboreal would be a better practice animal. Since they're up in the "trees," they're pretty much wherever you go... Eastern milk will likely be hiding away whenever you go to do cage maintenance. (Not to mention the prospect of going from tiny eastern milk to massive pit viper!) Venomoid snakes... Another unreliable thing, and, as I've heard it, cruel to boot. Hold on, let me track down the info I came across recently... Here we go. This is a direct copy and paste from a post made by a member of the corn snake forum, who aspires to be a venomous keeper, as well. "It IS possible, but not recommended. The venomoid procedure is usually done by backyard unlicensed "vets", and the health risk to the animal is VERY high. Several venomous snakes use their venom as a way to aid in their digestion. When I decide to keep a cobra (after years of working with them with a licensed venomous expert), it would still have it's venom glands. And even then, I wouldn't have more than one or two. They are absolutely beautiful animals, and I would hate to risk their life by trying to make them "safer". Besides, if the venomoid "procedure" is done incorrectly, the venom glands grow back." Here's a link to the thread it's from... The quoted post is from Page 4, but this link is to Page 5 since it's where most of the discussion took place: http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92326&page=5
i would never get a snake defanged. i meant finding a rescue that had one already defanged up for adoption. i view defanging snakes the same way i view getting a dog's vocal cords cut, horrible but i wouldnt let it stop me from adopting an animal that already had that done to them thanks for the link though
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Posted: Wed Dec 09, 2009 10:11 pm
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