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A bow is something you...
  put in your hair.
  shoot arrows with.
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ArmasTermin

PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 2:39 am
Pic on page 2.




I think a bow would be fun to play around with considering it's something I could use in my backyard and not have to go to a range or the middle of nowhere just to shoot. I know they can also be reasonably priced and ammo can be picked up and used again. So cost effective fun!

Question: What would be a good draw weight to go with? I don't really want to buy more than one, so what's something that's light enough I can use it at first with no prior experience but not so light that after I'm strong enough to be used to it that it feels weak in power? I was looking at this one, and it's about as much as I'd want to spend, with a 50# draw weight.

I know compound bows are "better" but I'm not really at all interested in them. Only longbows, shortbows, recurve bows, etc. Wood or fiberglass (or whatever else) is fine as far as materials go.

EDIT: Decided to pick out a measuring tape to figure out just how long that bow I linked to looked like. 72" is quite long indeed! Taller than I am. I guess I knew that longbows really were long, I just never really thought about it.  
PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 1:25 am
Get it professionally fitted. Seriously, don't ******** with getting your first online, you'll end up in the ER. My dad did archery in college, and his arrows were too short. He snapped one in half; half went clean through his sleeve and out the other side, the other half buried itself IN THE BOW.

As to draw weight, 50lb is a good starting point. My first was a 25-er, back when I was a lil' munchkin (7-8?), which is now (or was, because I sold it) a breeze to draw back and about three inches too short. Since then, I've been borrowing my dad's, which is 65-ish, and a bit tough to draw back, but being a compound, it's manageable. Personally I'd recommend a compound, but whatever floats your boat, really. If you want to start off archaic, go recurve, not longbow. Longbows are epic bitches to learn on because they're so big. Also, recurves are cheap as ********. You can get a decent one with arrows for $50-75. Though for about a hundred bucks, you can get a PSE, which is pretty much the Glock of bows, minus kB!. They're reliable, cheap, and get the job done just fine, but there are better ones if you want to spend the money. My dad's is a PSE and I'm nothing less than satisfied with it (except it tends to put the arrows THROUGH my target).

Find an archery shop and tell the guy you want to start off with a cheap recurve or longbow, and mention you're a lefty. It does make a difference. Most archery shops will have a used section too, so you can get a good bow even cheaper that way.  

Fresnel
Crew

Citizen


ArmasTermin

PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 4:18 am
Thanks Fresnel, you're probably right. I had wanted a more traditional one, but I don't think I'd even be able to find spare bowstrings for an archaic 72" bow. I'm not really worried of catastrophic failure of that bow I linked to, though. Is that really an issue?

I know there's an archery shop combined with a (great) gunshop in Lafayette, which is about an hour or so from me. I've been there a few times before, but didn't look at bows at the time. However I think it's primarily hunting bows, and hunters that use bows these days pretty much only use compounds.

Just out of curiosity, on the models from PSE (I like this one) when it says left hand, that means holding the bow in the left hand right? Because you hold the bow with your nondominanat hand, so me being a southpaw, I'd use a right-handed version? I'm pretty sure that's right, I just want someone to confirm.

EDIT: On an unrelated note, anybody know how long it takes callouses to build up? I've been diligently practicing with my sword lately, and the force of the movement of the handle is pulling at the skin of my hand and making welts at the second joint of my index finger, the base of my pinky, and my palm near my wrist. After a training session they hurt pretty bad, even when taking a couple days between practicing. I've been just using some lotion afterwards. Hopefully after long enough my hand will just be able to take it. But if it's the same after another couple weeks I might start wearing a glove.  
PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 8:50 am
ArmasTermin
Just out of curiosity, on the models from PSE (I like this one) when it says left hand, that means holding the bow in the left hand right? Because you hold the bow with your nondominanat hand, so me being a southpaw, I'd use a right-handed version? I'm pretty sure that's right, I just want someone to confirm.
You'd be using a left-handed version, I'm pretty sure.

You hold a right handed bow with your left hand, so you'd hold a left handed bow with your right hand.  

Shrantic


Fresnel
Crew

Citizen

PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 1:07 pm
ArmasTermin
Thanks Fresnel, you're probably right. I had wanted a more traditional one, but I don't think I'd even be able to find spare bowstrings for an archaic 72" bow. I'm not really worried of catastrophic failure of that bow I linked to, though. Is that really an issue?
With some simple equipment and the right kinds of string, you can build your own bowstring. I did it once for my old bow, but I never had the need to put it on. It's not really hard, but you have to have someone teach you who knows what they're doing, and that's the hard part.

It's not so much catastrophic failure of the bow... the arrows have to be custom-fitted to your own draw length. My dad has huge arms, so his draw length was beyond any arrow/bow combination his school offered. When he let go, the point of the arrow jammed into the bow, and the shaft broke in half.

Quote:
I know there's an archery shop combined with a (great) gunshop in Lafayette, which is about an hour or so from me. I've been there a few times before, but didn't look at bows at the time. However I think it's primarily hunting bows, and hunters that use bows these days pretty much only use compounds.
There's about six competition divisions, age notwithstanding: compound, recurve, and longbow, paired with manual or mechanical release. I was in the compound/manual division, along with one other guy. Longbow/mechanical was dead empty. xd

In any case, it shouldn't be too hard to find a recurve. The old-fashioned way is still pretty popular.

Quote:
Just out of curiosity, on the models from PSE (I like this one) when it says left hand, that means holding the bow in the left hand right? Because you hold the bow with your nondominanat hand, so me being a southpaw, I'd use a right-handed version? I'm pretty sure that's right, I just want someone to confirm.
Yeah, pretty sure the bow is based on your hand of choice, so a lefty would use a left-handed bow. Also worth noting, go with your dominant eye, not dominant hand. Otherwise you'll end with a forearm made of hamburger. That's how my dad taught me to be right-eye dominant.

Another serious advantage of the more modern style bows: an arrow rest. It sucks having to rest the arrow on your hand. Those fletchings can cut you good.  
PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 1:28 pm
My grandpa had a really good 50 pound hunting bow but he gave it away when we moved. I really wanted to use it. Now we live in an apartment and our back yard just leads to a middle school field. I've got no objections to the targets but it's illegal. xd  

Das Rabble Rouser

Invisible Phantom


ArmasTermin

PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 9:23 pm
I don't have to worry about being too big for the bow/arrows. I'm a pretty average-sized person. I probably will end up buying online, because there's a lot to choose from and I can think about it for a while without feeling like I have to pick one right away.

Apparently I'm right-eye dominant, so I should use a right-hand bow?  
PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 1:05 am
ArmasTermin
I don't have to worry about being too big for the bow/arrows. I'm a pretty average-sized person. I probably will end up buying online, because there's a lot to choose from and I can think about it for a while without feeling like I have to pick one right away.
At least show up to the shop and get measured. They have a special bow that has a ruler for an arrow, so you know your length of draw. It's been a while, but I think you fit the arrows to yourself and not the bow. The bow you fit within six inches or so with a recurve.

Quote:
Apparently I'm right-eye dominant, so I should use a right-hand bow?
Very yes. Otherwise, every time you let go, you'll end up with the string slapping you in the arm, and it hurts like a b***h. Unless you want to go left-eye dominant, then, by all means... There's no teacher like pain.  

Fresnel
Crew

Citizen


ArmasTermin

PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:05 am
Fresnel
ArmasTermin
I don't have to worry about being too big for the bow/arrows. I'm a pretty average-sized person. I probably will end up buying online, because there's a lot to choose from and I can think about it for a while without feeling like I have to pick one right away.
At least show up to the shop and get measured. They have a special bow that has a ruler for an arrow, so you know your length of draw. It's been a while, but I think you fit the arrows to yourself and not the bow. The bow you fit within six inches or so with a recurve.

Quote:
Apparently I'm right-eye dominant, so I should use a right-hand bow?
Very yes. Otherwise, every time you let go, you'll end up with the string slapping you in the arm, and it hurts like a b***h. Unless you want to go left-eye dominant, then, by all means... There's no teacher like pain.


Right-handed seems to be the way to go. Based on eye dominance and the way a "draw" feels when imitating the motions. Only thing to think of now is if I want the model with the detachable arms or the one-piece model. The one-piece version looks nicer and I prefer it aesthetically, but the ability to take down or even attach stronger arms for more power is nice.

If measuring for arrows is really that important, then doesn't that mean most people have to use custom arrows? Wouldn't that be a real pain in the a** for production companies? I measured what would be my draw length and got about 27-28". Checked online and found some companies selling in packs of six on Amazon in various lengths--25 to 30" in length. I guess you'd just go with an inch or two more than your draw length.

This is working out well, though. Successful topic is successful.  
PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:45 am
ArmasTermin
Fresnel
ArmasTermin
I don't have to worry about being too big for the bow/arrows. I'm a pretty average-sized person. I probably will end up buying online, because there's a lot to choose from and I can think about it for a while without feeling like I have to pick one right away.
At least show up to the shop and get measured. They have a special bow that has a ruler for an arrow, so you know your length of draw. It's been a while, but I think you fit the arrows to yourself and not the bow. The bow you fit within six inches or so with a recurve.

Quote:
Apparently I'm right-eye dominant, so I should use a right-hand bow?
Very yes. Otherwise, every time you let go, you'll end up with the string slapping you in the arm, and it hurts like a b***h. Unless you want to go left-eye dominant, then, by all means... There's no teacher like pain.


Right-handed seems to be the way to go. Based on eye dominance and the way a "draw" feels when imitating the motions. Only thing to think of now is if I want the model with the detachable arms or the one-piece model. The one-piece version looks nicer and I prefer it aesthetically, but the ability to take down or even attach stronger arms for more power is nice.

If measuring for arrows is really that important, then doesn't that mean most people have to use custom arrows? Wouldn't that be a real pain in the a** for production companies? I measured what would be my draw length and got about 27-28". Checked online and found some companies selling in packs of six on Amazon in various lengths--25 to 30" in length. I guess you'd just go with an inch or two more than your draw length.

This is working out well, though. Successful topic is successful.
Just to make sure you get the draw length right, hook the tip of a measuring tape on your index finger, arm straight out to your side, and draw the tape back until it touches the far corner of your mouth. That should get your close, but I'm not sure how close. Now that you mention the production thing, I'm not so certain any more. I know most shops have an arrow saw that spins the thing really damn fast and rubs it against a stationary blade to cut it to size, but if you're buying arrows online...

Yeah, I did competitive archery for a while when I was younger. Got pretty decent at it, but mine was a small division. Most people, when they go compound, they go with a mechanical release, too.  

Fresnel
Crew

Citizen


ArmasTermin

PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 7:02 pm
I like the PSE Blackhawk bow, and have read only good reviews of it online. Is Cabela's a good place to order from? They offer it, as well as the official PSE site. For something large and somewhat expensive, I want to make sure I get it from a reliable company, and quickly is a bonus.  
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 11:33 pm
ArmasTermin
I like the PSE Blackhawk bow, and have read only good reviews of it online. Is Cabela's a good place to order from? They offer it, as well as the official PSE site. For something large and somewhat expensive, I want to make sure I get it from a reliable company, and quickly is a bonus.
Cabela's has one major downside: Price. But if the price is comparable to other places, as I've noticed it sometimes can be, go for it. They sell the Lee Classic Reloader set at the cheapest prices on the internet outside of eBay.  

Fresnel
Crew

Citizen


ArmasTermin

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:23 am
Fresnel
ArmasTermin
I like the PSE Blackhawk bow, and have read only good reviews of it online. Is Cabela's a good place to order from? They offer it, as well as the official PSE site. For something large and somewhat expensive, I want to make sure I get it from a reliable company, and quickly is a bonus.
Cabela's has one major downside: Price. But if the price is comparable to other places, as I've noticed it sometimes can be, go for it. They sell the Lee Classic Reloader set at the cheapest prices on the internet outside of eBay.


I've seen it only going for $199 everywhere. So I may as well pick Cabela's. Also, went by the local Academy to pick up the archery paraphernalia--leather finger tab, arm guard, and a cheap synthetic folding quiver. Arrows are a lot cheaper than I thought, going from the cheapest wood and synthetic for $1.50 to around $6 and then the more expensive ones. So after the initial expense on this, I'll have free fun on my hands.  
PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:33 pm
ArmasTermin
Fresnel
ArmasTermin
I like the PSE Blackhawk bow, and have read only good reviews of it online. Is Cabela's a good place to order from? They offer it, as well as the official PSE site. For something large and somewhat expensive, I want to make sure I get it from a reliable company, and quickly is a bonus.
Cabela's has one major downside: Price. But if the price is comparable to other places, as I've noticed it sometimes can be, go for it. They sell the Lee Classic Reloader set at the cheapest prices on the internet outside of eBay.


I've seen it only going for $199 everywhere. So I may as well pick Cabela's. Also, went by the local Academy to pick up the archery paraphernalia--leather finger tab, arm guard, and a cheap synthetic folding quiver. Arrows are a lot cheaper than I thought, going from the cheapest wood and synthetic for $1.50 to around $6 and then the more expensive ones. So after the initial expense on this, I'll have free fun on my hands.
Tab, woo! A lot of people who do manual release prefer the leather 3-finger gloves.

You know what surprised me about arrows? I found a site selling carbon-fiber arrow shafts. No heads, no fletching. Weight: 12 grains. A .22LR bullet is 36 grains, usually. What the HELL, man.  

Fresnel
Crew

Citizen

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