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Nick nack paddy wack give a dog a
  bone.
  toy.
  rub it's nose in urine?
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II_TrOpiC BluE_II

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:26 pm
my kitty
used to pee everywhere
scratch everythin
sofas etc
thats why my mom
get rid of it v.v  
PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:30 pm
Demonic_Angel27
Ok, so my dogs run out the door whenever i open it, even tough i take them in walks regularly, their only chihuahuas, so i don't see how they have so much energy, how do i fix this problem?
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You can promote indoor exercise with toys and such. And try telling them to stay when you open the door.

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A-B0T

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Attie Buttermouse

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 3:25 pm
(We're in the process of training a service dog, where most of this comes from. heart )

SITTING: if you show the pup the treat (and here it's very important that they have to learn to wait for it. If they start jumping on you for the treat, this will not work. Simply fold it in your hand, turn around, and wait for them to settle before starting again. Eventually they'll learn to wait for the next command), lift it slowly straight up - from it's nose - into the air. The pup will sit down to watch. When this happens (and be VERY quick!) promptly give them the treat, praise them loudly, and keep repeating the command (good sit, Fido! GOOD sit!). If you're vigilant, the pup will begin to sit down when you pull out a treat before you even issue the command. smile

LAYING: (be careful here. The recommended command is "lay" - because if you use "down", the pup will get confused if you tell it to "get down" and stop jumping.) from a sitting position (and make sure sit is mastered first), take the treat in your fist, and bring it from the dogs nose to the ground. It'll take a few tries, but the dog will follow it down - and "lay" is born! Same as above, praise loudly with the repeated command, and be vigilant.

STAYING: here you need a partner. Have someone hold the leash, give the command, but only walk ONE OR TWO steps away. When the dog gets up to follow, say no (not really "stern" but "firm"), walk back, return to sit or lay position, and try again. When you're able to get that foot away without the dog standing to follow, praise loudly and treat. As the pup gets better, you can get farther and father away, and eventually it won't matter if someone's holding the leash or not, the pup will wait for you.

I have lots more, if anyone's interested. whee

Of importance:
There is one thing I absolutely DO NOT tolerate with my pack, and that is food aggression. (aggression of any kind, really, but food is of utmost importance!) When you're training a dog (and it's really best to do this as early as possible), when it's time to eat, pet the dog while it's eating. Touch it's food. If it growls, say no very firmly and take the dish away. If it bites at you, roll it on it's back (belly showing) and hold it a few moments (nothing harsh, don't slam it to the ground or anything!), before letting up and let the dog approach the bowl again. Then start gently petting it as it eats, talking softly. Remember that you are the alpha, the pack leader, and show that you expect to be treated as such. (This is what wild dogs do, when one disobeys or picks at the head, the head will flip them. Showing the belly is a sign of submission. But here's the important thing: dogs in the wild don't hold grudges. If you've been punished and submit, it's promptly forgotten and everyone moves on. You need to do the same with your pup.) If you are having a battle of wits with a particularly headstrong dog, eat out of it's bowl where it can see. (not actually OUT of the bowl - just put your dish inside, and eat from it.) While you're doing this, ignore the dog watching you. This will teach the dog submission, without beating it as so many people seem to think is the best thing to do.

If your dog has a problem with chewing (and all puppies do at one point or another!), simply keep a watchful eye on the dog (if you have to go somewhere, I FULLY recommend crating. A decent sized crate where they have their own toys, blanket, and it smells like them. At first, they will cry, but soon they begin to realize that this is their safe-place, and will treat it as such. But NEVER NEVER NEVER - I can't stress this enough - use the crate as punishment!), and as soon as it goes to chew on something, simply remove that something, and hand it the chewtoy. Be super excited about the chewtoy, and the dog will want it themselves. Of course, when you see them chewing on that toy, be sure to praise them. Best idea, though, not to get a cheap pair of shoes if shoes is a problem for you - the pup won't be able to differentiate between your shoe and theirs - best to go with a rubber bone or soft toy. They make stuffing-less toys that won't leave a mess.

Dogs learn best with positive reinforcement. And really, they're like children in many respects, particularly in that they look to you to determine the correct response. But unlike children, they don't look at your face, they scent your emotions. If you are afraid (and it doesn't matter if you're afraid of the approaching person or that your puppy will bite that person) they will react with fear. With any new thing you try in training, do it where they feel safe first, their home or yard. When they become proficient, then move out to the public. Just keep in mind that they very easily can get overwhelmed and tired, and don't overdo it.

Treat them right, and dogs really are the best things in the world!

(ok yes, this is dissertation length. sweatdrop This is a subject I can talk forever on, though!)  
PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:50 am
I know my dog whines when either my brother or father leave the house. He's a Pomeranian so.. yeah xD

Both of my cats used to scratch behind the couch until we got scratch poster thingys to put on the floor and they scratch it or just.. lay on it like the fat cats they are xDD  

Fluffy Floof

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