Why the hell didnt I do this sooner?

[Valkyrie Hatter]

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

Recon_Ninja_985

HelloJohnnyBlade

Other than a mess it leaves behind unlike it's synthetic cousins there's not much difference except clean up before reapplying.

all grease leaves behind a mess no matter what.

still gotta wipe away the carbon blasted filthy grease to clean the weapon anyway, you cant just keep using the same dirty carrier group without cleaning away what the ammo does

always wipe everything away and reapply. no matter what it is

Oil leaves behind a bigger mess than synthetics.
Why?

Because it's made from OIL!! scream It's already carbon blasted goo!!

Anyways yes you do have to clean up before reapplying but the oil based is going to leave a bigger mess. It might even be a little blackened but definitely not as bad as used engine oil.

Why would you think that petroleum products are "blasted with carbon"? Because it's a hydrocarbon? So is silicone. The only real difference with lithium is that it's safe to eat. Greases, by definition, are gooey and messy. Nothing else really changes, except viscosity and toxicity.

Silicone doesn't have hydrocarbon if it had them it wouldn't be applied to rubber that needed to retain it's shape. It's heat resistant which means if you cook it it will retain most of it's shape while oil based would actually cook and leave behind a tar like substance.

I'd suggest silicone for everything. Lithium if your that French guy that eats glass and metal.

You realize that silicone and silicon are different, right? Silicone is, chemically, silicon, hydrogen, carbon, oxygen, and trace other s**t. It's silicon + hydrocarbon.

And oil burns at rather high temperatures, gelatinous greases even higher. Like, your barrel will start to weaken and your handguards will light on fire and/or melt off at that temperature.

I came under the impression that silicone oils didn't swell rubber because it lacked hydrocarbon apparently it's just made from hydrocarboon but adding silicon to the mix just threw the formula from CN-H2 to H3C.

So it's the extra hydrogen atom in the molecule that prevents it from having the characteristics of true hydrocarbon.

I'm aware that it burns at insanely high temperatures but heat will always thicken oil after an extended period of time. Used car oil would be an example of this.

With your gun and your scenario with Axle grease. It was a matter on applying too much, the ever so common friction and the small amount of metal wear from your AR. Tis why it changed color on you and is thickening after each shooting.

But the thickening is also attribute to axle grease being...Well axle grease. It's thick enough to slather on a sock and stick it on a wall with a very light coating. It's not a very free flowing substance compared to lighter greases like the synthetic Castrol multipurpose that come in tubs.

The grease you used is the s**t that comes in a tube right?  

[Recon_Ninja_985]

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

Oil leaves behind a bigger mess than synthetics.
Why?

Because it's made from OIL!! scream It's already carbon blasted goo!!

Anyways yes you do have to clean up before reapplying but the oil based is going to leave a bigger mess. It might even be a little blackened but definitely not as bad as used engine oil.

Why would you think that petroleum products are "blasted with carbon"? Because it's a hydrocarbon? So is silicone. The only real difference with lithium is that it's safe to eat. Greases, by definition, are gooey and messy. Nothing else really changes, except viscosity and toxicity.

Silicone doesn't have hydrocarbon if it had them it wouldn't be applied to rubber that needed to retain it's shape. It's heat resistant which means if you cook it it will retain most of it's shape while oil based would actually cook and leave behind a tar like substance.

I'd suggest silicone for everything. Lithium if your that French guy that eats glass and metal.

You realize that silicone and silicon are different, right? Silicone is, chemically, silicon, hydrogen, carbon, oxygen, and trace other s**t. It's silicon + hydrocarbon.

And oil burns at rather high temperatures, gelatinous greases even higher. Like, your barrel will start to weaken and your handguards will light on fire and/or melt off at that temperature.

I came under the impression that silicone oils didn't swell rubber because it lacked hydrocarbon apparently it's just made from hydrocarboon but adding silicon to the mix just threw the formula from CN-H2 to H3C.

So it's the extra hydrogen atom in the molecule that prevents it from having the characteristics of true hydrocarbon.

I'm aware that it burns at insanely high temperatures but heat will always thicken oil after an extended period of time. Used car oil would be an example of this.

With your gun and your scenario with Axle grease. It was a matter on applying too much, the ever so common friction and the small amount of metal wear from your AR. Tis why it changed color on you and is thickening after each shooting.

But the thickening is also attribute to axle grease being...Well axle grease. It's thick enough to slather on a sock and stick it on a wall with a very light coating. It's not a very free flowing substance compared to lighter greases like the synthetic Castrol multipurpose that come in tubs.

The grease you used is the s**t that comes in a tube right?

im positive theres no reason at all for it to thicken

it most likely just collected in the back of his buffer tube after being stuffed back there by the buffer and im guessing it went squish every time it went into the back if the tube  

[Fresnel]

I never said anything about thickening, it's just gray and disgusting (though I personally find pretty much every grease disgusting, it's an OCD thing) and it's worked its way into every crevice and I couldn't clean it out if I wanted to. Though it's been thinning out by the simple fact that I haven't applied any more since I built the gun several years back, and I've wiped it off the carrier with every cleaning.

And I dunno if it came in a tube... it used to be that dark orange-red, now it's gunmetal grey.  

[Valkyrie Hatter]

Fresnel

I never said anything about thickening, it's just gray and disgusting (though I personally find pretty much every grease disgusting, it's an OCD thing) and it's worked its way into every crevice and I couldn't clean it out if I wanted to. Though it's been thinning out by the simple fact that I haven't applied any more since I built the gun several years back, and I've wiped it off the carrier with every cleaning.

And I dunno if it came in a tube... it used to be that dark orange-red, now it's gunmetal grey.

Just clean that b***h out if it bothers you so much.  

[Valkyrie Hatter]

Recon_Ninja_985

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

Oil leaves behind a bigger mess than synthetics.
Why?

Because it's made from OIL!! scream It's already carbon blasted goo!!

Anyways yes you do have to clean up before reapplying but the oil based is going to leave a bigger mess. It might even be a little blackened but definitely not as bad as used engine oil.

Why would you think that petroleum products are "blasted with carbon"? Because it's a hydrocarbon? So is silicone. The only real difference with lithium is that it's safe to eat. Greases, by definition, are gooey and messy. Nothing else really changes, except viscosity and toxicity.

Silicone doesn't have hydrocarbon if it had them it wouldn't be applied to rubber that needed to retain it's shape. It's heat resistant which means if you cook it it will retain most of it's shape while oil based would actually cook and leave behind a tar like substance.

I'd suggest silicone for everything. Lithium if your that French guy that eats glass and metal.

You realize that silicone and silicon are different, right? Silicone is, chemically, silicon, hydrogen, carbon, oxygen, and trace other s**t. It's silicon + hydrocarbon.

And oil burns at rather high temperatures, gelatinous greases even higher. Like, your barrel will start to weaken and your handguards will light on fire and/or melt off at that temperature.

I came under the impression that silicone oils didn't swell rubber because it lacked hydrocarbon apparently it's just made from hydrocarboon but adding silicon to the mix just threw the formula from CN-H2 to H3C.

So it's the extra hydrogen atom in the molecule that prevents it from having the characteristics of true hydrocarbon.

I'm aware that it burns at insanely high temperatures but heat will always thicken oil after an extended period of time. Used car oil would be an example of this.

With your gun and your scenario with Axle grease. It was a matter on applying too much, the ever so common friction and the small amount of metal wear from your AR. Tis why it changed color on you and is thickening after each shooting.

But the thickening is also attribute to axle grease being...Well axle grease. It's thick enough to slather on a sock and stick it on a wall with a very light coating. It's not a very free flowing substance compared to lighter greases like the synthetic Castrol multipurpose that come in tubs.

The grease you used is the s**t that comes in a tube right?

im positive theres no reason at all for it to thicken

it most likely just collected in the back of his buffer tube after being stuffed back there by the buffer and im guessing it went squish every time it went into the back if the tube

The s**t it collects when running through something no doubt makes it thick.  

[Recon_Ninja_985]

HelloJohnnyBlade

Recon_Ninja_985

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

Silicone doesn't have hydrocarbon if it had them it wouldn't be applied to rubber that needed to retain it's shape. It's heat resistant which means if you cook it it will retain most of it's shape while oil based would actually cook and leave behind a tar like substance.

I'd suggest silicone for everything. Lithium if your that French guy that eats glass and metal.

You realize that silicone and silicon are different, right? Silicone is, chemically, silicon, hydrogen, carbon, oxygen, and trace other s**t. It's silicon + hydrocarbon.

And oil burns at rather high temperatures, gelatinous greases even higher. Like, your barrel will start to weaken and your handguards will light on fire and/or melt off at that temperature.

I came under the impression that silicone oils didn't swell rubber because it lacked hydrocarbon apparently it's just made from hydrocarboon but adding silicon to the mix just threw the formula from CN-H2 to H3C.

So it's the extra hydrogen atom in the molecule that prevents it from having the characteristics of true hydrocarbon.

I'm aware that it burns at insanely high temperatures but heat will always thicken oil after an extended period of time. Used car oil would be an example of this.

With your gun and your scenario with Axle grease. It was a matter on applying too much, the ever so common friction and the small amount of metal wear from your AR. Tis why it changed color on you and is thickening after each shooting.

But the thickening is also attribute to axle grease being...Well axle grease. It's thick enough to slather on a sock and stick it on a wall with a very light coating. It's not a very free flowing substance compared to lighter greases like the synthetic Castrol multipurpose that come in tubs.

The grease you used is the s**t that comes in a tube right?

im positive theres no reason at all for it to thicken

it most likely just collected in the back of his buffer tube after being stuffed back there by the buffer and im guessing it went squish every time it went into the back if the tube

The s**t it collects when running through something no doubt makes it thick.

what the hell is it going to collect in the buffer, aside from stray carbon molecules???

in my experience I can never think of a time when anything solid somehow made it's way inside of a buffer in both M16s and AR15s
unless someone dropped their rifle while opened up for cleaning in the sand, by then every part of the weapon has to be cleaned.  

[Fresnel]

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

I never said anything about thickening, it's just gray and disgusting (though I personally find pretty much every grease disgusting, it's an OCD thing) and it's worked its way into every crevice and I couldn't clean it out if I wanted to. Though it's been thinning out by the simple fact that I haven't applied any more since I built the gun several years back, and I've wiped it off the carrier with every cleaning.

And I dunno if it came in a tube... it used to be that dark orange-red, now it's gunmetal grey.

Just clean that b***h out if it bothers you so much.

Any recommendations for solvent? Too many crevices for just elbow grease to fix it. Not to mention that I'd have to disassemble half the ******** gun... eh. Dunno if worth it.  

[Valkyrie Hatter]

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

I never said anything about thickening, it's just gray and disgusting (though I personally find pretty much every grease disgusting, it's an OCD thing) and it's worked its way into every crevice and I couldn't clean it out if I wanted to. Though it's been thinning out by the simple fact that I haven't applied any more since I built the gun several years back, and I've wiped it off the carrier with every cleaning.

And I dunno if it came in a tube... it used to be that dark orange-red, now it's gunmetal grey.

Just clean that b***h out if it bothers you so much.

Any recommendations for solvent? Too many crevices for just elbow grease to fix it. Not to mention that I'd have to disassemble half the ******** gun... eh. Dunno if worth it.

Buy the carburetor cleaner that comes in a paint can. Just go to a small engine service shop and ask for a non aresol carburetor cleaner.

You might want to put on a gas mask to use this stuff because the aresol version is bearable while the unpressurized version is volatile and could cause you to pass out quite easily.

Take the gun apart as much as you can and put it in a metal container where it can lay flat in. Buy enough carb cleaner to fill it all the way up. with carb cleaner.
Place your parts in the container with the carb cleaner and let it set for 18-24 hours.

Don't try this with the plastic parts strip it down to the metal.

After it's set shake it in the carb cleaner and dry it. All the oils and greases on the parts should be gone and the carb cleaner will have a darker color and an oil on water look to it.  

[090Freak090]

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

I never said anything about thickening, it's just gray and disgusting (though I personally find pretty much every grease disgusting, it's an OCD thing) and it's worked its way into every crevice and I couldn't clean it out if I wanted to. Though it's been thinning out by the simple fact that I haven't applied any more since I built the gun several years back, and I've wiped it off the carrier with every cleaning.

And I dunno if it came in a tube... it used to be that dark orange-red, now it's gunmetal grey.

Just clean that b***h out if it bothers you so much.

Any recommendations for solvent? Too many crevices for just elbow grease to fix it. Not to mention that I'd have to disassemble half the ******** gun... eh. Dunno if worth it.

Buy the carburetor cleaner that comes in a paint can. Just go to a small engine service shop and ask for a non aresol carburetor cleaner.

You might want to put on a gas mask to use this stuff because the aresol version is bearable while the unpressurized version is volatile and could cause you to pass out quite easily.

Take the gun apart as much as you can and put it in a metal container where it can lay flat in. Buy enough carb cleaner to fill it all the way up. with carb cleaner.
Place your parts in the container with the carb cleaner and let it set for 18-24 hours.

Don't try this with the plastic parts strip it down to the metal.

After it's set shake it in the carb cleaner and dry it. All the oils and greases on the parts should be gone and the carb cleaner will have a darker color and an oil on water look to it.

why not aerosol?


what about PB Blaster?  

[Fresnel]

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

I never said anything about thickening, it's just gray and disgusting (though I personally find pretty much every grease disgusting, it's an OCD thing) and it's worked its way into every crevice and I couldn't clean it out if I wanted to. Though it's been thinning out by the simple fact that I haven't applied any more since I built the gun several years back, and I've wiped it off the carrier with every cleaning.

And I dunno if it came in a tube... it used to be that dark orange-red, now it's gunmetal grey.

Just clean that b***h out if it bothers you so much.

Any recommendations for solvent? Too many crevices for just elbow grease to fix it. Not to mention that I'd have to disassemble half the ******** gun... eh. Dunno if worth it.

Buy the carburetor cleaner that comes in a paint can. Just go to a small engine service shop and ask for a non aresol carburetor cleaner.

You might want to put on a gas mask to use this stuff because the aresol version is bearable while the unpressurized version is volatile and could cause you to pass out quite easily.

Take the gun apart as much as you can and put it in a metal container where it can lay flat in. Buy enough carb cleaner to fill it all the way up. with carb cleaner.
Place your parts in the container with the carb cleaner and let it set for 18-24 hours.

Don't try this with the plastic parts strip it down to the metal.

After it's set shake it in the carb cleaner and dry it. All the oils and greases on the parts should be gone and the carb cleaner will have a darker color and an oil on water look to it.

The problem is stripping off the buffer tube. There's small parts involved... the work isn't worth the payout yet, especially since I never shoot the ******** thing. I'm still working on the order of ammo I bought three years ago.  

[Valkyrie Hatter]

090Freak090

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

I never said anything about thickening, it's just gray and disgusting (though I personally find pretty much every grease disgusting, it's an OCD thing) and it's worked its way into every crevice and I couldn't clean it out if I wanted to. Though it's been thinning out by the simple fact that I haven't applied any more since I built the gun several years back, and I've wiped it off the carrier with every cleaning.

And I dunno if it came in a tube... it used to be that dark orange-red, now it's gunmetal grey.

Just clean that b***h out if it bothers you so much.

Any recommendations for solvent? Too many crevices for just elbow grease to fix it. Not to mention that I'd have to disassemble half the ******** gun... eh. Dunno if worth it.

Buy the carburetor cleaner that comes in a paint can. Just go to a small engine service shop and ask for a non aresol carburetor cleaner.

You might want to put on a gas mask to use this stuff because the aresol version is bearable while the unpressurized version is volatile and could cause you to pass out quite easily.

Take the gun apart as much as you can and put it in a metal container where it can lay flat in. Buy enough carb cleaner to fill it all the way up. with carb cleaner.
Place your parts in the container with the carb cleaner and let it set for 18-24 hours.

Don't try this with the plastic parts strip it down to the metal.

After it's set shake it in the carb cleaner and dry it. All the oils and greases on the parts should be gone and the carb cleaner will have a darker color and an oil on water look to it.

why not aerosol?


what about PB Blaster?

If you've ever seen carb cleaner in a paint can you'd see the difference.  

[Fresnel]

HelloJohnnyBlade

090Freak090

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

Fresnel

I never said anything about thickening, it's just gray and disgusting (though I personally find pretty much every grease disgusting, it's an OCD thing) and it's worked its way into every crevice and I couldn't clean it out if I wanted to. Though it's been thinning out by the simple fact that I haven't applied any more since I built the gun several years back, and I've wiped it off the carrier with every cleaning.

And I dunno if it came in a tube... it used to be that dark orange-red, now it's gunmetal grey.

Just clean that b***h out if it bothers you so much.

Any recommendations for solvent? Too many crevices for just elbow grease to fix it. Not to mention that I'd have to disassemble half the ******** gun... eh. Dunno if worth it.

Buy the carburetor cleaner that comes in a paint can. Just go to a small engine service shop and ask for a non aresol carburetor cleaner.

You might want to put on a gas mask to use this stuff because the aresol version is bearable while the unpressurized version is volatile and could cause you to pass out quite easily.

Take the gun apart as much as you can and put it in a metal container where it can lay flat in. Buy enough carb cleaner to fill it all the way up. with carb cleaner.
Place your parts in the container with the carb cleaner and let it set for 18-24 hours.

Don't try this with the plastic parts strip it down to the metal.

After it's set shake it in the carb cleaner and dry it. All the oils and greases on the parts should be gone and the carb cleaner will have a darker color and an oil on water look to it.

why not aerosol?


what about PB Blaster?

If you've ever seen carb cleaner in a paint can you'd see the difference.

It's also really good stuff for stripping carbon from the bolt.  

[090Freak090]

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

090Freak090

why not aerosol?


what about PB Blaster?

If you've ever seen carb cleaner in a paint can you'd see the difference.

It's also really good stuff for stripping carbon from the bolt.

Thats great and all but seeing as how I haven't seen it in a paint can would you mind providing me with a helpful explanation as to why aerosol is a bad idea? Is it harmful at all to the rifle or is it just not as effective and why?  

[Fresnel]

090Freak090

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

090Freak090

why not aerosol?


what about PB Blaster?

If you've ever seen carb cleaner in a paint can you'd see the difference.

It's also really good stuff for stripping carbon from the bolt.

Thats great and all but seeing as how I haven't seen it in a paint can would you mind providing me with a helpful explanation as to why aerosol is a bad idea? Is it harmful at all to the rifle or is it just not as effective and why?

I've never seen it in aerosol, I use the carb cleaner that comes in a 12oz. jug, like fuel injector cleaner. And aerosol is bad only if you shoot it at the rifle, 'cos it'll melt the stock if it comes in contact.  

[Valkyrie Hatter]

090Freak090

Fresnel

HelloJohnnyBlade

090Freak090

why not aerosol?


what about PB Blaster?

If you've ever seen carb cleaner in a paint can you'd see the difference.

It's also really good stuff for stripping carbon from the bolt.

Thats great and all but seeing as how I haven't seen it in a paint can would you mind providing me with a helpful explanation as to why aerosol is a bad idea? Is it harmful at all to the rifle or is it just not as effective and why?

Aresol version evaporates faster because you can only apply it in small amounts.

Carb cleaner in jugs or paint cans you can just sit your metal parts in it and have them cleaned over night and evaporation wouldn't be much of an issue since the application is en masse.