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Valkyrie Hatter

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 6:03 pm
Fresnel
090Freak090
Fresnel
HelloJohnnyBlade
090Freak090

why not aerosol?


what about PB Blaster?
If you've ever seen carb cleaner in a paint can you'd see the difference.
It's also really good stuff for stripping carbon from the bolt.

Thats great and all but seeing as how I haven't seen it in a paint can would you mind providing me with a helpful explanation as to why aerosol is a bad idea? Is it harmful at all to the rifle or is it just not as effective and why?
I've never seen it in aerosol, I use the carb cleaner that comes in a 12oz. jug, like fuel injector cleaner. And aerosol is bad only if you shoot it at the rifle, 'cos it'll melt the stock if it comes in contact.
Carb and choke cleaner? You've seriously never seen it? It comes in a can just like WD-40.  
PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 6:05 pm
Recon_Ninja_985
HelloJohnnyBlade
Recon_Ninja_985
HelloJohnnyBlade
Fresnel
HelloJohnnyBlade


Silicone doesn't have hydrocarbon if it had them it wouldn't be applied to rubber that needed to retain it's shape. It's heat resistant which means if you cook it it will retain most of it's shape while oil based would actually cook and leave behind a tar like substance.

I'd suggest silicone for everything. Lithium if your that French guy that eats glass and metal.
You realize that silicone and silicon are different, right? Silicone is, chemically, silicon, hydrogen, carbon, oxygen, and trace other s**t. It's silicon + hydrocarbon.

And oil burns at rather high temperatures, gelatinous greases even higher. Like, your barrel will start to weaken and your handguards will light on fire and/or melt off at that temperature.


I came under the impression that silicone oils didn't swell rubber because it lacked hydrocarbon apparently it's just made from hydrocarboon but adding silicon to the mix just threw the formula from CN-H2 to H3C.

So it's the extra hydrogen atom in the molecule that prevents it from having the characteristics of true hydrocarbon.

I'm aware that it burns at insanely high temperatures but heat will always thicken oil after an extended period of time. Used car oil would be an example of this.

With your gun and your scenario with Axle grease. It was a matter on applying too much, the ever so common friction and the small amount of metal wear from your AR. Tis why it changed color on you and is thickening after each shooting.

But the thickening is also attribute to axle grease being...Well axle grease. It's thick enough to slather on a sock and stick it on a wall with a very light coating. It's not a very free flowing substance compared to lighter greases like the synthetic Castrol multipurpose that come in tubs.

The grease you used is the s**t that comes in a tube right?
im positive theres no reason at all for it to thicken

it most likely just collected in the back of his buffer tube after being stuffed back there by the buffer and im guessing it went squish every time it went into the back if the tube
The s**t it collects when running through something no doubt makes it thick.
what the hell is it going to collect in the buffer, aside from stray carbon molecules???

in my experience I can never think of a time when anything solid somehow made it's way inside of a buffer in both M16s and AR15s
unless someone dropped their rifle while opened up for cleaning in the sand, by then every part of the weapon has to be cleaned.
You answered your own question and previous applications of oil and grease if you didn't clean it well enough.  

Valkyrie Hatter

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Recon_Ninja_985

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 8:56 pm
HelloJohnnyBlade
Recon_Ninja_985
HelloJohnnyBlade
Recon_Ninja_985
HelloJohnnyBlade


I came under the impression that silicone oils didn't swell rubber because it lacked hydrocarbon apparently it's just made from hydrocarboon but adding silicon to the mix just threw the formula from CN-H2 to H3C.

So it's the extra hydrogen atom in the molecule that prevents it from having the characteristics of true hydrocarbon.

I'm aware that it burns at insanely high temperatures but heat will always thicken oil after an extended period of time. Used car oil would be an example of this.

With your gun and your scenario with Axle grease. It was a matter on applying too much, the ever so common friction and the small amount of metal wear from your AR. Tis why it changed color on you and is thickening after each shooting.

But the thickening is also attribute to axle grease being...Well axle grease. It's thick enough to slather on a sock and stick it on a wall with a very light coating. It's not a very free flowing substance compared to lighter greases like the synthetic Castrol multipurpose that come in tubs.

The grease you used is the s**t that comes in a tube right?
im positive theres no reason at all for it to thicken

it most likely just collected in the back of his buffer tube after being stuffed back there by the buffer and im guessing it went squish every time it went into the back if the tube
The s**t it collects when running through something no doubt makes it thick.
what the hell is it going to collect in the buffer, aside from stray carbon molecules???

in my experience I can never think of a time when anything solid somehow made it's way inside of a buffer in both M16s and AR15s
unless someone dropped their rifle while opened up for cleaning in the sand, by then every part of the weapon has to be cleaned.
You answered your own question and previous applications of oil and grease if you didn't clean it well enough.
no,I did not answer anything. HARDLY ANYTHING makes it back there. all there ever is would be a slight black color that is wiped away easily

when was the last time you ever had to clean anything solid from your buffer tube after regular use of your AR?  
PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 11:00 pm
Recon_Ninja_985
HelloJohnnyBlade
Recon_Ninja_985
HelloJohnnyBlade
Recon_Ninja_985
HelloJohnnyBlade


I came under the impression that silicone oils didn't swell rubber because it lacked hydrocarbon apparently it's just made from hydrocarboon but adding silicon to the mix just threw the formula from CN-H2 to H3C.

So it's the extra hydrogen atom in the molecule that prevents it from having the characteristics of true hydrocarbon.

I'm aware that it burns at insanely high temperatures but heat will always thicken oil after an extended period of time. Used car oil would be an example of this.

With your gun and your scenario with Axle grease. It was a matter on applying too much, the ever so common friction and the small amount of metal wear from your AR. Tis why it changed color on you and is thickening after each shooting.

But the thickening is also attribute to axle grease being...Well axle grease. It's thick enough to slather on a sock and stick it on a wall with a very light coating. It's not a very free flowing substance compared to lighter greases like the synthetic Castrol multipurpose that come in tubs.

The grease you used is the s**t that comes in a tube right?
im positive theres no reason at all for it to thicken

it most likely just collected in the back of his buffer tube after being stuffed back there by the buffer and im guessing it went squish every time it went into the back if the tube
The s**t it collects when running through something no doubt makes it thick.
what the hell is it going to collect in the buffer, aside from stray carbon molecules???

in my experience I can never think of a time when anything solid somehow made it's way inside of a buffer in both M16s and AR15s
unless someone dropped their rifle while opened up for cleaning in the sand, by then every part of the weapon has to be cleaned.
You answered your own question and previous applications of oil and grease if you didn't clean it well enough.
no,I did not answer anything. HARDLY ANYTHING makes it back there. all there ever is would be a slight black color that is wiped away easily

when was the last time you ever had to clean anything solid from your buffer tube after regular use of your AR?
I always lightly oil my spring just because I think it is a good measure to oil any part that moves. besides it prevents carbon build up  

090Freak090


Fresnel
Crew

Citizen

PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 11:09 pm
HelloJohnnyBlade
Fresnel
090Freak090
Fresnel
HelloJohnnyBlade
090Freak090

why not aerosol?


what about PB Blaster?
If you've ever seen carb cleaner in a paint can you'd see the difference.
It's also really good stuff for stripping carbon from the bolt.

Thats great and all but seeing as how I haven't seen it in a paint can would you mind providing me with a helpful explanation as to why aerosol is a bad idea? Is it harmful at all to the rifle or is it just not as effective and why?
I've never seen it in aerosol, I use the carb cleaner that comes in a 12oz. jug, like fuel injector cleaner. And aerosol is bad only if you shoot it at the rifle, 'cos it'll melt the stock if it comes in contact.
Carb and choke cleaner? You've seriously never seen it? It comes in a can just like WD-40.
Ironic that you say that, because I've seen liquid WD-40 in paint-thinner-esque tins. But no, I've never bought it in aerosol form. Straight liquid is better anyway... just fill a jar and let the parts soak.  
PostPosted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 1:11 am
well, the badassness of grease has been confirmed in part

2 magazines and almost 2 weeks later the thin application has not evaporated away and is still as slick as when I applied it.


exactly what I need, something that will not vanish on me out of nowhere.
this is a start

based off my own test and the trials of others it's showing much promise.

I will continue use and update accordingly to report success/issues in case it really isnt what it's cracked up to be

an 80's era beretta 92f will also be used in my testing

I would include my AK's in grease testing...but they run regardless without lube...
I just oil them now and again just in case  

Recon_Ninja_985

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