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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 3:05 pm
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 4:15 pm
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Rainey_angel81 Krissim - I disagree with using the clicker for 1 reason. Timing. If you're off by even a smidge, you end up marking for the wrong behavior. Unless your reflexes are really good or if taught by someone else, it's the wrong training tool to use. In a class of 5, usually only 1 person is skilled enough to use it. When I teach a SAR class, I have to individually take clickers and do it for them. I've had dogs who learn half-sits or to pop up immediately because their owner is too early or too late. Wow really, I thought the clicker would be something most people could pick up pretty easy. One of the great things about it is you are able to mark a behavor in the split second it is happening.
I don't know, maybe I was just lucky or a quick study, but I had no problem picking it up once I learned the basic concept of it from reading a couple books. I never had anyone formally show me how to use it but have still had great success teaching my dog everything from sit, down, stay, stand, go in your crate, drop it, watch me, come, speak and things like loose leash walking. It has been such a big help in building up his confidence when walking around other dogs without feeling the need to growl and bark like crazy to keep them away.
Initially I used it on my cat first (yes he was my test subject before I even got the dog) and was amazed to find I had him offering a sit within the first 5-10 minutes of doing it with him. Really should do should follow through with teaching him a cue for sit and other tricks since he seems like he has been so sedate lately.
Sure, sometimes you mark the wrong behavoir but in the big scheme of things that doesn't matter as long as you are marking the proper behaviors more often than not. I mean in the begining of shaping many responses you are marking for behaviors that aren't anything you want but just steps in that direction. I have just found clicker training so amazing compared to any other method I have tried.
How would you suggest the average person to go about training? Also would you mind pming me the dominance reduction program you are going to type up too? Not really having that issue but I would love to read the info also. Always valued your knowledge when it comes to dogs. ^.^
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 4:18 pm
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 4:45 pm
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 4:55 pm
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 4:58 pm
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 5:03 pm
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Rainey_angel81 FogSage shoki_de_nai Well, how old are they? I don't think leaving them out there is the best idea. Best case scenario if someone doesn't take them in, they manage to live and become feral cats. Feral cats can cause problems, especially since they're both female. There's no other choice. Sending them to the vet and putting them up for adoption would be a waste of time, because there are plenty of pets out there for the taking without having to go all that way. We can't take care of them, my sister won't, my mother won't, our neighbor's won't, so it's either they die or they live as feral cats. Kittens are adopted more often than grown cats or dogs.
Not around here they aren't. Everybody and their cousin has dogs and cats, and few of them are neutered or spayed, simply because people are irresponsible. Hell, all you need to do is say the word "kitten" and a dozen people are at your side, asking you to take some from a newly born litter.
No, it would do no good at all.
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 5:15 pm
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Krissim Klaw Rainey_angel81 Krissim - I disagree with using the clicker for 1 reason. Timing. If you're off by even a smidge, you end up marking for the wrong behavior. Unless your reflexes are really good or if taught by someone else, it's the wrong training tool to use. In a class of 5, usually only 1 person is skilled enough to use it. When I teach a SAR class, I have to individually take clickers and do it for them. I've had dogs who learn half-sits or to pop up immediately because their owner is too early or too late. Wow really, I thought the clicker would be something most people could pick up pretty easy. One of the great things about it is you are able to mark a behavor in the split second it is happening. I don't know, maybe I was just lucky or a quick study, but I had no problem picking it up once I learned the basic concept of it from reading a couple books. I never had anyone formally show me how to use it but have still had great success teaching my dog everything from sit, down, stay, stand, go in your crate, drop it, watch me, come, speak and things like loose leash walking. It has been such a big help in building up his confidence when walking around other dogs without feeling the need to growl and bark like crazy to keep them away. Initially I used it on my cat first (yes he was my test subject before I even got the dog) and was amazed to find I had him offering a sit within the first 5-10 minutes of doing it with him. Really should do should follow through with teaching him a cue for sit and other tricks since he seems like he has been so sedate lately. Sure, sometimes you mark the wrong behavoir but in the big scheme of things that doesn't matter as long as you are marking the proper behaviors more often than not. I mean in the begining of shaping many responses you are marking for behaviors that aren't anything you want but just steps in that direction. I have just found clicker training so amazing compared to any other method I have tried. How would you suggest the average person to go about training? Also would you mind pming me the dominance reduction program you are going to type up too? Not really having that issue but I would love to read the info also. Always valued your knowledge when it comes to dogs. ^.^
It would depend on the dog more than the person. The most common and seems to be the most effective training has been treat or positive based training. The only thing wrong with it, is that the handler becomes a giant treat dispenser and the dogs should want to work for the person, not for the treats. For the more dominant dogs, you want to keep away from treat based training and go for something more like placement/praise or a correction based training such as the koehler method.
There are those who are really good at clicker training and those who are not. It's more of a personal opinion. I know my agility instructor would only choose certain people to do clicker training with, just because again, most people are so fumble fingered that holding a treat and a leash in the same hand are already too much.
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 5:19 pm
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 6:13 pm
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 6:36 pm
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 8:30 pm
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 8:35 pm
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 6:32 am
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FogSage Rainey_angel81 FogSage shoki_de_nai Well, how old are they? I don't think leaving them out there is the best idea. Best case scenario if someone doesn't take them in, they manage to live and become feral cats. Feral cats can cause problems, especially since they're both female. There's no other choice. Sending them to the vet and putting them up for adoption would be a waste of time, because there are plenty of pets out there for the taking without having to go all that way. We can't take care of them, my sister won't, my mother won't, our neighbor's won't, so it's either they die or they live as feral cats. Kittens are adopted more often than grown cats or dogs. Not around here they aren't. Everybody and their cousin has dogs and cats, and few of them are neutered or spayed, simply because people are irresponsible. Hell, all you need to do is say the word "kitten" and a dozen people are at your side, asking you to take some from a newly born litter. No, it would do no good at all. Wow, you're just heartless. :/ If it was me, I'd take them in, dogs or no dogs
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:58 am
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