Until recently, trendy young men with brown dyed hair and tanned skin were a prominent fixture on the streets of Shibuya. They were known as gyaru-o ("gal men") - meaning male versions of the girls with a similar look who dominated Shibuya street fashion a few years ago. But now many of these men have graduated from the gyaru-o look to a new style that has been dubbed onii-kei (literally "elder brother style"). Whereas gyaru-o tend to dress down in surfer attire or casual sports clothing, onii-kei men prefer a slick look characterized by white tailored jackets, low-necked tank tops, imported jeans, and pointed leather shoes.
Onii-kei Essentials
Onii-kei combines the styles known in Japanese as Ame-kaji ("American casual") and Ita-kaji ("Italian casual") with rocker touches to create a glamorous, sexy look. Onii-kei men are designer label fanatics who complete their outfits with belts, waist pouches, watches, sunglasses, and other accessories from world-famous brands. Also essential to the onii-kei look is the teased shag haircut known as "wolf hair," fastidiously groomed and complemented by scented products.
Before onii-kei came onee-kei, or "elder sister style." The story of this look begins in around 1996, when a sexy, casual style known as "gal" fashion sprouted on the streets of Shibuya and was adopted by large numbers of teenage girls. By around 2000, the "gals" had grown up and began donning body-hugging dresses for a more adult look. This look became known as onee-kei. The newly emerged "elder brother style" is the male counterpart to this "elder sister style." Onii-kei, which differs from rougher casual styles such as the military look and Ame-kaji, is finding favor among the growing ranks of young men who find themselves ready to graduate to a more adult look.