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Peprika

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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 5:11 pm


	Here I am, once again posting because my sewing machine is on a fritz....so here is my problem... The needle on the machine keeps breaking. I checked the singer website and they said I was using either the wrong sized needle or my tension was screwed up. Here is a list of the needle sizes, machine needle types and cloth. Which does fleece fit under? and is having the tension at zero a bad thing?? (I feel like such a noobie...) Sheer to lightweight: Batiste, Chiffon, Georgette, Organza, Voile and all microfiber or microdenier fabrics. Regular Point 9/70 or 11/80 --------------------------------------- Lightweight: Challis, Chambray, Charmeuse, Crepe de Chine, Guaze, Handkerchief Linen, Silk, Taffeta, Tissue Faille. Regular Point 11/80 ----------------------------------------- Medium-weight: Broadcloth, Brocade, Chino, Chintz, Corduroy, Flannel, Linen, Poplin, Satin, Synthetic Suedes, Taffeta, Terry, Velvet Regular Point 14/90 ---------------------------------------- Medium to Heavy-weight: Coating, Damask, Drapery Fabric, Fake Fur, Gabardine, Ticking, Woolens Regular Point 16/100 or 18/110 --------------------------------------- Denim and Canvas Denim/Jeans 16/100 -------------------------------------- Sheer to Lightweight Knits: Jersey, Single Knit, Spandex, Tricot Ball Point 10/70 or 12/80 --------------------------------------- Medium to Heavy-weight Knits: Double Knit, Sweatshirt, Sweater Knit Ball Point 14/90 -------------------------------------- Specialty Fabrics: Leather, Suede, Buckskin Wedge Point 14/90 or 16/100

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 7:25 pm


	Well, I can't help on the details, but I sewed about 100 fleece cat-ear caps for a friend on my sewing machine and it has never recovered. My machine can sew fleece just fine, but when I sew regular fabric the tension is all loose and I break needles all the time too. So I hope someone can help with your problem! heart

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kochi~mochi

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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 7:52 pm


	My machine has a bracket around 2, 3, and 4 on the tension gauge. Most fabrics work somewhere in there. I would suggest starting with scrap fleece, and sew a little bit at a tension three, and then if that doesn't work, try up to 4, or down to two.

Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 9:00 pm


	I don't know a whole lot about machines, but I can offer two tips: 1. you can check tension by threading the machine with two different colors of thread (like yellow on the top and red in the bobbin) and sewing a straight line on a piece of white scrap fabric. Then look very carefully at the stitches. If you can see red on the top of the fabric (the red from the bobbin is pulled upwards) the top tension is too high and the bottom is too low. If you can see yellow from the bottom (the yellow is pulled all the way down through the fabric) then the bottom tension is too high and the top is too low. You can adjust bit by bit until the colors are even and the red rests all on the bottom, the yellow all on the top. 2. The last time I took my machine in to be serviced the repair guy gave me this helpful tip: Most seweing machine needles are not actually sharp (even though they will feel sharp). Particularly with the run of the mill Singer needles, the needle ends are blunted which means the needles will go around the fibers rather than piercing through the cloth. This is very good for knit fabric, but it can cause problems in woven cloth. You have to specifically buy needles labeled "denim" or "Sharp" in order for them to be truely piercingly sharp. If your machine is having trouble binding, try getting this type of needle. I usually buy the Schmetz brand which is universal for almost all machines. Hope that helps a bit!

YourAzureGoddess

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Peprika

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Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:00 am


	Thanks Azure and everyone else!

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:47 pm


	sorry, i only knit

fashionista468

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Lore Lux

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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 11:02 pm


	Exactly what i needed help with! You're not alone!

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